Happy New Year, beer lovers! To start 2017, I've decided to produce a video review and present two different Russian Imperial Stouts from 2013, which have been aging in my basement over the past couple of years. There's not much that I can write in this post that isn't said in the video, so if you have some time, sit back and enjoy this video. It's a little long—almost 20 minutes—but it is a detailed review of two stouts and includes the kind of tasting notes that you've come to expect at Beer O'Clock. Considering it's unscripted, I'm surprised I was able to shut up in the 19 minutes of recording. The Russian Imperial Stouts are by
I hope you enjoy this video review. If you do, let me know by leaving a comment. If there's enough interest, I may make video reviews a monthly thing. Cheers!
I know: it's been a while since I've posted a beer review. And I've been meaning to, but as always happens in life, life gets in the way. If you're also a reader of The Brown Knowser, you know that I've been occupied with house renovations, which often leaves me tired. Not too tired to have a beer, mind you: just too tired to write about it. I have been trying lots of new beers, and in order to catch up, I'm going to review two of them in this post. Lately, I've pulled away from buying my lunch at the cafeteria at work, partly because it's not inexpensive and also because the short-order cook has difficulties, at times, putting together a club sandwich. Also, she talks to me with a baby voice that I find off-putting in a person that is about my age. Instead, I take about the same amount of time at lunch to drive to a nearby IGA, and I prefer to do this because I get to choose exactly what I want to eat without having it botched (or, if it is, that's totally on me) and it costs a lot less for a lot more. But there's an even better reason to go to this independent grocer: beer. Working in Québec, every single grocery store has an extensive selection of beer; especially, craft beer that is not readily available in Ontario. And while some Ontario grocery stores are now selling beer and wine, these stores are either out of my way or are situated close to an LCBO, my preferred venue for finding great craft brews. In the IGA near work, I find that in addition to a great craft beer selection, there are lots of variety packs that allow me to try several styles of beer that a brewer offers without committing to a six pack of a single type of beer. And, as an added bonus, some of these beers go on sale, so I can usually find something new at a buck or so off the regular price. I've tried quite a few over the past few months, from my favourites, Dieu du Ciel and McAuslan, to Archibald and les Brasseurs RJ.
One of the best beers that I've tried from my grocery-store visits is a beer from a brewery that I was introduced to a couple of years ago, as I was waiting for a flight at the Montréal airport. This brewery has a pub in the Pierre Elliot Trudeau International Airport, but also has a great selection of their beer in my IGA. Let's look at their IPA.
Appearance: slightly unfiltered, bright apricot with a dense, foamy off-white head. Nose: orange, grapefruit, and tropical notes like mango and pineapple. Palate: candied grapefruit and tangerine. There are pronounced hops but they are not overly bitter. Orange rind and bitterness make their appearance in the long, satisfying finish. Overall impression: this is a very nice, fruity IPA that is well-balanced between those fruit flavours and the finishing bitterness. This is an IPA lover's IPA. Absolutely delicious. Beer O'Clock rating: 4.5 I said, earlier, that McAuslan is one of my favourite Québec microbreweries. They have an outstanding IPA and make the best pumpkin and maple ales out there. There isn't a brew that they've produced that I haven't liked. Until now. And I can't exactly say that I don't like this selection; rather, I was disappointed at how it didn't blow me away, particularly after I had just revelled in the oak-aged pale ale that I had picked up at the IGA only a week before. Let's take a look:
Appearance: unfiltered, pale grapefruit juice or pineapple juice in appearance, with a creamy white head that settles to a thin cap. Nose: lots of fresh hops, with lemon citrus notes. Palate: an astringent citrus—unripened grapefruit, with big hops and grass. The hops hit the roof of the mouth like you are sucking on a dry tea bag and the finish lingers, giving this ale an extremely dry feel. Overall impression: this is a tough one to suss out. I like the hops but not the astringent fruit. I like the dryness but not how it feels on the roof of my mouth. For a session IPA, it's good but there are better ones out there, and that's what disappoints me. Normally, I see a McAuslan beer and I know that I'm getting something good. With this selection, I'd drink it again but I don't think I'll buy more. Beer O'Clock rating: 2.5 I'll review more brews from la belle provence as the months go on. Cheers!
Like a fine wine, some beer is meant to be stored, set down so that it can fully mature. And Imperial stouts fall firmly into that category. Not all Imperial stouts require aging. I've been able to bring a bottle back from the store, open it up, and savour it. For example, in this series of reviews, I opened a Bolshevik Bastard shortly after I picked up the four-pack at the LCBO, and I enjoyed the flavours as they presented themselves. I also picked up another Imperial stout that is meant to be consumed straight away—a Long, Dark Voyage to Uranus, by Sawdust City Brewing Company—and savoured it that very night, and again, a couple of weeks later.
I liked it, but didn't include it in this series of reviews because I had already chosen my list. I'll review it some other time, perhaps.
But what has really struck me, over the past couple of months (has it been that long??), is that not all Imperial stouts are created equally, and while some can be polished off on the night they left the liquor store, some must not. Some must be put away and forgotten. To wrap up my series of Imperial stout reviews, I was going to compare two ales that have been in my cellar for at least a year. They were by the same brewery and I thought it would be good to compare how they had aged. When I did the last review of this Imperial stout, I thought it would be a good idea to let them age. I didn't let them age long enough. The beer was a Russian Imperial stout, by McAuslan.
I brought my bottle from 2012 and 2013 up from the cellar. I decided to try the 2012 first, figuring it would have mellowed a little more, and I didn't want the 2013 to overpower my taste buds.
St-Ambroise Special Reserve 2012 Bourbon Wood-Aged Russian Imperial Stout (9.2% ABV) McAuslan Brewing, Inc. Montreal QC
Appearance: a murky, coffee brown with a light, creamy, cocoa-brown head that settles to a thin cap. Nose: bourbon and oak, burnt toffee and cocoa. Palate: big-time, toasty bourbon, prunes, and alcohol, with a boozy, charred-wood finish. Overall impression: an Imperial stout that is as intense as this needed time before I could properly form an opinion. My taste buds needed time to adjust, because at first, I didn't like it. It was too much, too strong, too harsh. But I nursed the glass for a couple of hours, and as it opened up, ever so slightly, I gained an appreciation for it. I saw its potential, saw what it could become, if only I had left it in my cellar longer. Much longer. Enjoying such an Imperial stout is like enjoying a good single-malt scotch. It is meant to be sipped, to be savoured. It's also meant to age, for far longer than two years.
Beer O'Clock rating: 3 (for now) When my friend, Perry, first gave me a case of his Russian Imperial stout, he told me that he thought it could stand up for 10 years. I was surprised, but I learned in drinking it, nine years on, that he was right. And I will finish my last bottle on its tenth anniversary. The McAuslan stout is the same. It could last 10 years. It certainly shouldn't be released from its bottle before it turns five. I regret opening this bottle too soon, but I can redeem myself. I placed the bottle of 2013 back in the cellar, promising myself to hold onto it until at least 2018 or 2020. Or longer. This is my last Imperial stout review until my friend's beer hits 10. I probably won't have another Imperial stout until then, as my palate craves something different. I'll have another review next week. Cheers!
Over the summer, I pulled a bottle of beer from my cellar and thoroughly enjoyed it. Even though I had decided that I was going to discontinue my Beer O'Clock blog, I made notes and took a photo of the beer. But somehow, I can't find any record of having consumed the wonderful beverage.
Thankfully, I am blessed to have a wonderful memory when it comes to flavours, be it with food, or wine, or beer. Just thinking about a beer I've had will bring the flavours to my mouth. I will remember where I had it, who I was with, and what I thought of the beer.
When I was invited to try a beer that hadn't been released, wouldn't be released until today (November 4), I couldn't say no. I can never say no to good craft beer. And though this beer is a new release, I've had it before: that is to say, I've had previous vintages of it. Yes, today's beer review is about a vintage ale. A Russian Imperial Stout.
Appearance: a deep walnut that allows no light to pass through (my test: shining the flashlight on my iPhone through it. I saw nothing come through), with a light cocoa-brown head that comes on strong and foamy but settles to a thin, bubbly cap. Nose: intense cocoa, plump raisins, and bourbon. Palate: dark-roasted coffee, prunes, and bitter, dark chocolate. It finishes with a heady, whisky-like mouth; over time, a trace of vanilla can be felt on the tongue. Overall impression: it's no secret that McAuslan is one of my favourite breweries. There is nothing they make that I don't like, or love. That's because they do nothing half-way. This in an intense Imperial stout with loads of flavour and a strength that will ensure its longevity. When I originally tried the 2012 vintage, I knew that this ale will be something that you can set down for several years and it will hold up well.
It's unforgettable.
I still have a bottle of the 2012, and have added a 2013 to the collection. In a few years, I will hold a step tasting and will see how each vintage has matured. But, in the meantime, I suggest that you stock up now, because this wonderful stout is available in limited quantities only. I got mine at Bières du Monde, in Aylmer, where I plan to pick up more. They also sell a special McAuslan beer glass, specifically designed for the stout. Get yours before they're all gone.
With the pre-spring thaw in the Ottawa area, we are firmly planted in what is often known as maple-syrup season. What better way to break in this season with some beer? Last month, during the WinterBrewed festival, I had the privilege of trying some outstanding craft ale. Among my favourite tastes was one by a favourite brewery of mine, McAuslan. Among their standard fare of fine ales (their St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout and IPA are among my favourite beers of all time), they had a special seasonal that, to this date, is not available in Ottawa or in most locations in Ottawa. Luckily, I live on the border of the brewery's home province of Québec, and I work a short distance of beer shops that stock it. But what I didn't realize until I started my quest for this special ale was that other breweries craft a similar brew. That beer is maple ale. Over the last couple of weeks (and especially, this weekend), I came across and sought out more maple-flavoured ales and decided to conduct a comparison. I found four, and over the weekend I tried all of them, which I will share with you now.
The first beer I tried this weekend comes courtesy of my favourite Ontario brewery, and came to me as a birthday gift. Mill Street has recently launched a spring sampler pack, with three bocks, called Spring Imp, and three maple ales, which lead my tasting for this review.
Spring Thaw Maple Ale (5.3% ABV) Mill Street Brewery Toronto, ON Beer O'Clock rating: 3
Colour: deep amber to a copper orange, with a foamy beige head that dissipates but maintains a thin coating over the top of the glass. Nose: a pumpkin-like citrus and maple, with a bit of a freshly baked bagel. Palate: fresh citrus and very mild honey; the maple grows in the mouth but stays dry through the finish. Overall impression: this is a fresh, easy-drinking ale with just a kiss of maple. While it is highly enjoyable, I was reminded of the pumpkin ale and, to an extent, the Tartan Scotch Ale. I liked this beer but was starting to wonder if this breweries seasonals were taking on a familiar theme, based on a single recipe with a few differences. Still, I really liked the beer and looked forward to the remaining bottles in the pack. Next, I went to the beer that I sought out and that started my whole maple kick.
Appearance: tawny-amber with a whitish-beige head that vanishes quickly. Nose: candied fruit with definite tones of maple syrup. Palate: intense maple without the cloying sweetness of syrup. Overall impression: I love—LOVE—this ale. I could happily pour it over my pancakes (though I'd have to add some sugar). The maple clearly comes through. This is the best maple beer I've ever had. Next, I went for something different but right up my alley.
Maple Porter (6% ABV) Nickel Brook (Better Bitters Brewing Company) Burlington, ON Beer O'Clock rating: 4
Appearance: dark walnut-brown that allows no light to pass through it; a foamy taupe head that dissipates but coats the top of the pint. Nose: coffee and chocolate malt. Palate: definite maple off the top with chocolate and coffee backing it up. It's rich with a mild sweetness in the finish. Overall impression: this is an incredibly balanced porter. There are rich flavours of a great porter that happens to have a touch of maple syrup. I could drink this ale all day. It's beautiful. Finally, I tried a beer that was recommended to me by a fellow Ottawa blogger and Twitter friend, who warned me that this ale was "crazy sweet." He said it was like drinking a Wurther's Original. Reluctantly, I picked it up.
Appearance: honey gold with a white foam that vanishes immediately. Nose: honey, orange citrus, lemongrass, and candied fruit. Palate: grassy hops with very little maple. Overall impression: this ale was nothing like I expected. It was very grassy in the mouth and quite herbal, but I found no cloying sweetness. In fact, my taste buds worked very hard to find any sweetness at all. I did find a touch, but it was overwhelmed by the grassiness of the hops. And I really didn't get enough maple to consider this selection a maple ale. While there was nothing wrong with this beer, it wasn't to my taste and I don't think I would drink it again. But it did round out my sample of maple ales. So I think my appetite for maple ales is satiated. I will stock up on St-Ambroise and Nickel Brook and will enjoy Mill Street's offering while I can. Cheers!
Attention: residents of Ottawa and visitors. If our city hosts a beer event—any beer event—and you want to go, do it early. We Ottawans are a thirsty lot. We'll polish off the beer in good time and we'll go for the popular ones first.
A crowded Saturday
It's fair to say that the first WinterBrewed Festival on Sparks Street was an overwhelming success. Despite the frigid temperatures—Sunday saw wind chills in the minus 20s—the mall and booths were packed. On Saturday, unexpected crowds saw lots of long lineups at the ticket booths. One of my friends, who I saw on Saturday evening, told me it took her 40 minutes to get through the line and she had purchased advanced tickets. More ticket booths were put in place on Sunday and lines were shorter. And the only challenge that the cold seemed to bring was freezing beer lines. The cold did not keep the beer fans away.
Pork Of Yore
There were some amazing foods and beers to try. Among my favourite dishes were the sausage from Pork of Yore and the ragout from Mill Street. And while I didn't try it, the Maple Floss (maple-flavoured candy floss) smelled extraordinary. Maple was not only in the candy floss, but also at a sugar shack and in beer. My favourite beer of the show was the St-Ambroise Érable, a maple ale from McAuslin. The colour of light maple syrup, this special ale held strong flavours of maple sugar without the overpowering sweetness. It was about as Canadian as you can get at this time of year. To have some of it, though, you had to be at the festival on Saturday. By that evening, it was gone. Other favourite brews of the festival include (in no particular order) the following:
Hot beer
from Muskoka Brewery—a cask-conditioned version of their Winter Beard Double-Chocolate Cranberry Stout; I even tried a hot version of this ale, which tasted like hot chocolate with a kick of rum.
from Beau's All Natural Brewing Company—Dubbel Koyt Oatmeal Gruit, The Bog Father Imperial Gruit, Burnt Rock Vanilla Porter, and a black IPA whose name escapes me; I also had another hot beer, Butter Beer, which blended their Winterbrewed coffee ale with a concoction from the festival's president, J.P. Fournier. The result was a creamy beverage that tasted like a caramelized egg nog: delicious!
Am I missing anybody? Probably. As the event's official photographer, I wandered up and down the blocks of Sparks Street between Elgin and O'Connor for more than eight hours on Saturday and about five or six hours on Sunday. I passed all the tents and stopped at practically every single one. But I took no notes; I only locked the ones that blew me away in my head.
J.P. can feel proud that he did Ottawa proud with this Winterlude event. Ottawans can rest assured that their city has a seemingly insatiable love for craft beer.
A love that shows that it pays to get to an event early.
Just a friendly reminder: if any vendors are interested in using any of my photos, please contact me. The photos are my property and require permission to be used. Thanks.
Yes! When HogsBack Brewing announced that they would be collaborating with another local brewery, Broadhead, to release a bacon-flavoured stout, I got all tingly in my nether regions. I love stout. I love bacon. I firmly believe that life would be less exciting without them. But the more I thought about this combination, the more I started thinking: do I really want bacon in my stout? The tingly feelings stopped. What if I didn't like bacon-flavoured stout? What if trying it turned me off of stout, turned me against bacon? Highly unlikely.
Aporkalypse Now Oatmeal Bacon Stout Hogsback Brewing Company (with Broadhead Brewing Company), Ottawa ON ABV: 5.5% Beer O'Clock rating: 4.5/5
Colour: deep, dark walnut brown that lets no light pass through; the pale, beige head is creamy and dissipates quickly but leaves a fine lace. Nose: smoky, toasted malts and rich, roasted coffee; as it opens, the bacon comes through and makes me salivate. Palate: charred wood and smoke that projected images of crispy bacon in my mind. The beer coats the tongue and the toasted malts follow to the finish and lingers. The smoke, at the back of my throat, reminds me of an Islay malt.
Overall impression: this is a great oatmeal stout. I am somewhat reminded of McAuslin's St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout, but there is something more to it. And in a way, a little too much more. As I said, this is a great stout. But when I first tasted it, I thought that something was missing: food. This is a great beer to enjoy with food; on its own, I felt the smokiness was a little overwhelming. But because I was reviewing the beer over lunch, that solution was quickly put into place. And because I was working from home yesterday, I had many lunch resources at my disposal. I decided to make a sandwich that I refer to as my Borg sandwich: a Borgwich. It is perfection and it is unbelievable with Aporkalypse (aBorgalyptic). Ross' Borgwich consists of the following:
a handful of baby spinach, raw and washed
fresh tomato, thinly sliced
extra-old cheddar cheese (I use a brick of Black Diamond, cut about 2 mm thick and enough to cover a slice of bread
multigrain bread (the more grains and seeds, the better)
2 eggs, fried in lots of butter, over easy (but not too runny; just enough to drizzle without running all over the place)
3 strips of bacon, cooked to taste (I prefer medium to crispy)
dried dill and pepper, to taste
spicy barbecue sauce, to taste
In a skillet, cook the bacon. Do this step so that the bacon is essentially finished cooking before you fry the eggs.
Heat a small fry pan at medium heat and melt about a tablespoon of butter (I use a cast-iron pan with a 6-inch diameter). Place the toast in the toaster on a light setting (enough to crisp the outer face of the bread but still soft on the inside—about 4 minutes, depending on your toaster). Crack the two eggs in the fry pan, carefully, not to break the yolks. Add dill and pepper.
When the egg whites have cooked but the yolks are still runny, carefully flip them (again, don't break the yolks). Leave the pan on the burner but turn off the heat. Assemble the sandwich in the following order, from bottom to top: first slice of bread; bacon, cheese, eggs (you may need to fold edges of white to make it fit); barbecue sauce; spinach; tomato; second slice of bread. Cut the sandwich so that both yolks break. If you've cooked them properly, the yolk will ooze, not run.
Eat and enjoy with a nice glass of Aporkalypse Now. Yes, this is a decadent sandwich. I don't even want to think about how many calories it holds. But Aporkalypse is a decadent beer. I don't expect you'll have it often. But have it as much as you can, while it's around. You can start by attending the stout's release, this Friday, February 8, from 5–7 pm at The Heart and Crown on Preston Street. Assuming it stays around, it will also be on tap at the WinterBrewed festival on Sparks Street, February 16–17.
Bacon and beer? Absolutely! Aporkalypse Now rekindles my love for both of them. And like my Borgwich, this stout strives to embody perfection.
