I have a long-overdue review to do in this post, but first, I have some business to take care of.
Last week, I did something that I haven't done in more than a decade: perhaps, two.
I bought a beer book.
Two great beer bloggers and authors have combined forces to put together a comprehensive guide to Ontario craft breweries and brew pubs, aptly named The Ontario Craft Beer Guide. Authors Robin LeBlanc (The Thirsty Wench) and Jordan St. John (St. John's Wort) have listed every brewery and as many brew pubs and craft-beer watering holes that they could find in Ontario, which is a daunting task, considering that a new brewery seems to pop up every week in our province. This duo kept track until late 2015.
The book comes in a nice hand-held format and lists everything in alphabetical order, with ratings for most of the breweries' signature selections. I started ticking off the brews that I've tried, and I've learned that I have a lot of beer to discover.
I also learned that for the beers that I have tried, my rating for the beer is very close to those of LeBlanc's and St. John's, which is assuring. As a result of this finding, I have modified my rating scale, somewhat, based on some of the criteria that is used in their book. I'm not copying it, as my ratings were very close. I just enhanced my descriptions for these ratings.
And now, to put my review skills to good use...
I would like to say that I owe Mill Street Brewery an apology. This Toronto craft brewer became my favourite more than five years ago, when I first tried their flagship brew, Tankhouse. When the brewery expanded and set up a brew pub in Ottawa, I was there on the very day that they opened their doors (I followed them, anxiously, while the old mill underwent renovations for them). I was a regular of the Ottawa pub, showing up at least once a week for the first three years.
Mill Street Brew Pub was my second home. Almost every server, bartender, and manager knew me, by name. I frequently hung out with the head brewer. I was invited to brew launches and brewmaster dinners. I earned my Master of Beer Appreciation (a now-defunct loyalty program) three times. I had a pint glass with my name engraved on it, which was served to me on my visits.
I celebrated birthdays and other special occasions at the pub. I organized tweetups and other social gatherings on many occasions.
Heck, one of the photos that I shot of the Ottawa brew pub hangs prominently on the wall in their Pearson International Airport pub, in Toronto.
I don't know what made me visit the pub less frequently. I started seeing other bars, trying other beer. When the core of the management staff left, I didn't come as often. I didn't have as many people to chat with. When the head brewer, Adam Rader, left unexpectedly, I became worried about what would happen to the brews that he came up with. The replacement brewer was fine, but I found that I was losing enthusiasm for the new releases.
And then, almost a year ago, I stopped going altogether.
And then, Labatt bought Mill Street.
I was worried about what would happen to the brews that I loved so much: Tankhouse, Cobblestone, Vanilla Porter, and so many others.
I'm glad Mill Street had its big break, is now able to produce and distribute nation-wide. I just wish it was without the help of one of the mass brewers that I wouldn't touch with a 10-foot mash paddle.
Last week, when I visited my local LCBO, I saw a new can with a familiar logo and I thought, why have I forsaken Mill Street?
Forsaken no more: I picked up a couple of cans and anxiously awaited a good time to open them. And here's the review:
West Coast Style IPA (6.6% ABV)
Mill Street Brewery
Toronto ON
Appearance: unfiltered, deep apricot, which reminded me of orange juice. The head was a creamy off-white and settled to a thick cap and remained all the way to the bottom of the glass.
Nose: ripe orange citrus and fresh hops.
Palate: the hops come up quickly to greet you but are immediately backed up with creamy citrus flavours that seem almost sweet. The bitterness carries through to the finish but does not dominate the taste buds.
Overall impression: this is a beautifully balanced IPA—typical of other west-coast styles that I've tried. It's a gentle but well-defined ale; anyone can enjoy this beer and should try it.
West Coast Style IPA is a warm welcome to me for all the Mill Street offerings that I've missed over the past year. It has reminded me that this brewery is a leader in Ontario and a commanding force in Canada.
Do you forgive me, Mill Street?
Beer O'Clock rating: 3.5
Cheers!
When the weather starts to cool, as fall is in full swing, the last thing I want to drink is a light beer, like a wheat ale or saison. At this time of year, I prefer something full-bodied.
Mill Street has released an autumn sampler, which includes some of my favourite of their beers: Tankhouse Ale, Cobblestone Stout, and Vanilla Porter. It also includes an old English-styled ale, Distillery, and one of their oldest brews, the Organic Lager.
But one beer that comes in the six pack, a beer that I truly wish came in a six pack of its own, is a wonderful German-styled bock that is perfect for the season.
Weizenbock (7.5% ABV)
Mill Street Brewery
Toronto ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 4
Appearance: an unfiltered, murky toffee with a taupe head that settles almost immediately to a fine lace.
Nose: malt, yeast, and a distinct banana-walnut bread.
Palate: bananas, raisins, and burnt caramel, that come to a finish that leaves you feeling warm all over.
Overall impression: I love this beer. There is lots of body, lots of flavour, and is well-balanced. It drinks very well on its own or with a meal: the first time I tried this bock was at the last Brewmaster's Dinner at Mill Street, and it was perfectly paired with a roasted leg of lamb. But I've also enjoyed it with a beef burger too.
You can find Weizenbock in the latest Seasonal Sampler, available at the LCBO, or you can also get it on tap at the Mill Street Brew Pubs in Ottawa and Toronto. It's also available at select pubs that specialize in craft beers. Check your local watering hole: if it doesn't have it on tap, you're not going to the right places.
I find that the draft version of Weizenbock to be a bit creamier, and rate it at 4.5. But either on tap or in a bottle, it's a beer that's not to be missed.
Cheers!
There are some flavours, some foods, that once you've tasted, you never forget.
At the very first Brewmaster's Dinner that I attended, in the spring of 2012, at Mill Street Brew Pub, I had the pleasure of eating a lobster bisque that made me remember what true love is. It was rich, flavourful, and silky smooth. One of the ingredients that made this lobster bisque stand out from any other that I've had was a touch of vanilla.
The beer that was paired with this culinary masterpiece was the brewery's Vanilla Porter.
This seasonal had only been available on tap at the brew pub and select drinking establishments. But this weekend, it became available in nitrogen-charged cans at the LCBO.
Vanilla Porter (5% ABV)
Mill Street Brewery
Toronto, ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 5
Appearance: a clear, dark brown with red highlights, almost like root beer, with a dense, creamy taupe head that sticks around with a thick cap.
Nose: vanilla, faint licorice.
Palate: vanilla, maple syrup, light chocolate, and a light espresso finish.
Overall impression: this is a well-balanced ale with imposing vanilla, warm malts, and a slightly hopped finish. It tastes sweet without cloying, but finishes dry. It is a true treat.
I have missed that lobster bisque ever since I had it, more than a year and a half ago. And I miss the vanilla porter when it leaves the taps at Mill Street. But at least now I won't have to miss one of them anymore. (You're making the cans available year-round, aren't you, Mill Street?)
Best to play it safe and stock up.
My manager isn't going to like this post.
Last week, I popped into the Mill Street Brew Pub because... well... I'm there almost every week. But when I was there, one of the assistant managers, Kyle, saw me and said, "You should have been at last week's Brewmaster's Dinner. We had a beer that won't be available here. It'll only be available at the beer hall." That's Mill Street's new Beer Hall, which just opened in the Distillery District in Toronto.
My manager won't like this post because he won't be able to get his hands on this beer easily.
Kyle then added, "Actually, we still have some. Hang on." He disappeared for a few minutes, and when he returned he had a growler in his hand. He plunked it down on the bar in front of me. "It's on me," he said.
I have good friends at Mill Street.
But, just because Kyle gave me a growler of beer, I do not feel under any obligation to give a good review. Luckily, for me and for them, I really enjoyed it.
Minimus Dubbel (8.3% ABV)
Mill Street Brewing Company
Toronto, ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 3.5
Appearance: deep-toffee brown with red highlights, and a whitish head that dissipates quickly to a fine lace.
Nose: toffee pudding and bananas.
Palate: fresh banana loaf with walnuts and raisins, and a long, toffee finish.
Overall impression: this Belgian-styled dubbel reminds me of a festive toffee pudding. With its subtle sweetness, it's almost a dessert. It is well-balanced, and despite the high alcohol content you can't taste the booze.
This is a great beer that Mill Street should seriously consider sending up to its Ottawa brew pub. Seriously, folks: celebrate your beer hall with it, and then send it along.
If not for me, do it for my manager.
With the pre-spring thaw in the Ottawa area, we are firmly planted in what is often known as maple-syrup season. What better way to break in this season with some beer?
Last month, during the WinterBrewed festival, I had the privilege of trying some outstanding craft ale. Among my favourite tastes was one by a favourite brewery of mine, McAuslan. Among their standard fare of fine ales (their St-Ambroise Oatmeal Stout and IPA are among my favourite beers of all time), they had a special seasonal that, to this date, is not available in Ottawa or in most locations in Ottawa.
Luckily, I live on the border of the brewery's home province of Québec, and I work a short distance of beer shops that stock it.
But what I didn't realize until I started my quest for this special ale was that other breweries craft a similar brew.
That beer is maple ale.
Over the last couple of weeks (and especially, this weekend), I came across and sought out more maple-flavoured ales and decided to conduct a comparison.
I found four, and over the weekend I tried all of them, which I will share with you now.
The first beer I tried this weekend comes courtesy of my favourite Ontario brewery, and came to me as a birthday gift. Mill Street has recently launched a spring sampler pack, with three bocks, called Spring Imp, and three maple ales, which lead my tasting for this review.
Spring Thaw Maple Ale (5.3% ABV)
Mill Street Brewery
Toronto, ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 3
Colour: deep amber to a copper orange, with a foamy beige head that dissipates but maintains a thin coating over the top of the glass.
Nose: a pumpkin-like citrus and maple, with a bit of a freshly baked bagel.
Palate: fresh citrus and very mild honey; the maple grows in the mouth but stays dry through the finish.
Overall impression: this is a fresh, easy-drinking ale with just a kiss of maple. While it is highly enjoyable, I was reminded of the pumpkin ale and, to an extent, the Tartan Scotch Ale. I liked this beer but was starting to wonder if this breweries seasonals were taking on a familiar theme, based on a single recipe with a few differences.
Still, I really liked the beer and looked forward to the remaining bottles in the pack.
Next, I went to the beer that I sought out and that started my whole maple kick.
St-Ambroise Erable (4.5% ABV)
Brasserie McAuslan
Montréal, QC
Beer O'Clock rating: 5
Appearance: tawny-amber with a whitish-beige head that vanishes quickly.
Nose: candied fruit with definite tones of maple syrup.
Palate: intense maple without the cloying sweetness of syrup.
Overall impression: I love—LOVE—this ale. I could happily pour it over my pancakes (though I'd have to add some sugar). The maple clearly comes through. This is the best maple beer I've ever had.
Next, I went for something different but right up my alley.
Maple Porter (6% ABV)
Nickel Brook (Better Bitters Brewing Company)
Burlington, ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 4
Appearance: dark walnut-brown that allows no light to pass through it; a foamy taupe head that dissipates but coats the top of the pint.
Nose: coffee and chocolate malt.
Palate: definite maple off the top with chocolate and coffee backing it up. It's rich with a mild sweetness in the finish.
Overall impression: this is an incredibly balanced porter. There are rich flavours of a great porter that happens to have a touch of maple syrup. I could drink this ale all day. It's beautiful.
Finally, I tried a beer that was recommended to me by a fellow Ottawa blogger and Twitter friend, who warned me that this ale was "crazy sweet." He said it was like drinking a Wurther's Original. Reluctantly, I picked it up.
Spring Maple Belgian Blonde Ale (7% ABV)
Lake of Bays Brewing Company
Baysville, ON
Beer O'Clock rating: 2
Appearance: honey gold with a white foam that vanishes immediately.
Nose: honey, orange citrus, lemongrass, and candied fruit.
Palate: grassy hops with very little maple.
Overall impression: this ale was nothing like I expected. It was very grassy in the mouth and quite herbal, but I found no cloying sweetness. In fact, my taste buds worked very hard to find any sweetness at all. I did find a touch, but it was overwhelmed by the grassiness of the hops. And I really didn't get enough maple to consider this selection a maple ale.
While there was nothing wrong with this beer, it wasn't to my taste and I don't think I would drink it again. But it did round out my sample of maple ales.
So I think my appetite for maple ales is satiated. I will stock up on St-Ambroise and Nickel Brook and will enjoy Mill Street's offering while I can.
Cheers!
Adam Rader has done it again.
On the heels of his highly regarded Double-Chocolate Imperial Stout, Ottawa's Mill Street Brew Pub head brewer has concocted another gem of a limited seasonal.
Tannenbaumer English Ale
Mill Street Brew Pub (Ottawa only)
$6.75, 14-oz glass; $16.50, 64-oz growler (incl. deposit)
7.2% ABV
My rating: 4.5
Toffee-amber in colour with a fine, white head that dissipates early, I found the nose similar to their Hallowe'en seasonal, Nightmare on Mill Street. But this ale offers more cinnamon and vanilla on the nose, and there is no nutmeg used. In the mouth, I found the ale creamy but dry, with a touch of honey and a slow-burning finish. The alcohol comes through in the aftertaste, but it's well-balanced.
Only nine kegs of this seasonal were made, so I'd recommend that you get to Mill Street and try it sooner rather than later. You might be sorry if you delay.
