Soutwestern Road Trip, Part 3

I did Tucson in one day. But what a day it was.

Tucson is in the middle of the Sonoran desert, where the air is dry and the heat burns down on you. Because of the dryness, it's perfect from keeping metal from corrosion, and that's exactly why the Airplane Boneyard houses hundreds of aircraft in various states of disrepair. The parts are kept and used and they don't age.

Unfortunately, for we humans, the dryness makes us thirsty. Luckily, there are plenty of breweries to quench our thirst.

Because I did Tucson in one day, traveling with my family, my brother, and his kids, I couldn't make Tucson a place to tour breweries all day. We were spending the morning at Pima Air and Space Museum and the afternoon at the Airplane Boneyard, so for lunch, we searched for one brew pub that would satisfy my quest for beer and fill everyone's stomach.

And, luckily, it was only 15 minutes away from the airplanes.

I had my first taste of Nimbus Brewing Company a couple of days after arriving in Arizona, at Copper Blues Rock Pub & Kitchen, in Phoenix. I had really enjoyed their oatmeal stout and was looking forward to trying more. At their brew pub, I sampled the stout again plus six more.

• Dirty Guera Blonde Ale (4% ABV, rated 2.5): this light-coloured ale had an equally light body and quickly quenched my thirst in the heat (it was about 30C). The flavour was also light, so halfway through this sample, I passed my glass to my wife and moved on. It's an easy-drinking ale but I found nothing that stood out on it.
• Red Ale (5% ABV, rated 3): as I stated in my review of Beaver Street Brewing, in Flagstaff, I'm not a big fan of red ales. But my visit to Arizona was starting to change this opinion, thanks to Beaver Street and now, Nimbus. This is the most-flavourful red ale I've ever had. Lots of body, good balance between malts and hops, and a full finish. I drained this 4-ounce glass.
• Pale Ale (5.5% ABV, rated 3): this is a classic pale ale, with fresh hops and a clean finish. This would be perfect for an afternoon in the heat.
• Old Monkeyshine English Ale (8.2% ABV, rated 3): this English-style ale is very malty and packs a punch. I enjoyed it, but because it didn't taste like a traditional English ale and because the alcohol came through to distraction, I rated it as I did. I could only finish about a third of the glass before I felt the need to move on.
• Brown Ale (5% ABV, rated 3): another English-styled ale, this brown was very nice. Light body, good balance, and a nice finish. I enjoyed it very much but, again, there was nothing that stood out, nothing that distinguished it from any other brown ale.
• IPA (7.5% ABV, rated 4): now, here was a great Indian Pale Ale. Lots of bold, bitter hops, tons of grapefruit, and a long, strong finish. I only wished that the alcohol content wasn't quite so high.

Nimbus makes some very good ales, any one that I would say, "Go for it." The food at the pub was enjoyable and pleased everyone at our table (where ages ranged from 4 to 51). And that says a lot.

If you're ever in Tucson, seek these folks out.

I did have additional beer that day. It was, after all, St. Patrick's Day. Our hotel, a Hampton Inn, served some green ale during Happy Hour, and I indulged in a glass. I didn't want to appear snobbish, so I didn't ask the staff member who was handing out the glasses what it was we were drinking (I also thought that she might not have known, as it was coming out in a glass pitcher, from the kitchen, and she was just pouring the glasses). I expected the beer to be Bud, or Coors, or some other swill, but when I sipped it, I noticed that it had good body and reminded me of a wheat ale.

It was good.

I've never drunk green beer before, never participated in that strange St. Paddy's Day ritual. This time, I was glad that I had.

There was one additional beer that I had in Tucson, late in the evening, at Pizzeria Bianco in the downtown core. It was lovely.

• Dragoon IPA, by Dragoon Brewing Company (Tuscon AZ: 7.3% ABV, rated 4): great body, nice hops, clean finish. I looked for more of this ale at some of the Whole Foods that we visited for the rest of the trip, without luck. 

The next evening, back in Phoenix, my brother took me to a pizza shop in Meza, but we didn't eat. The restaurant, Queen's Pizzeria, also served craft beer on tap. We had been listening to some live music, a couple of doors down at The Underground, and between sets we went for a pint, to chat and to rest our ears.

• Road Rash IPA, by THAT Brewing Company (Pine AZ: 7% ABV, rated 3.5): I loved the name of this brewery and their IPA was classic, with great citrus notes, beautifully balanced bitterness, clean finish, and bold flavours.

It was a great beer to end my trip in Arizona.

From this point out, my road trip was taking me to California, and the apparent beer capital of America, San Diego. 

Cheers!

Southwestern Road Trip, Part 2

One of the truly beautiful parts of Arizona is up north, between the mountains of Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon, as well as to the east of the canyon, along the Colorado River, near Lake Powell and the Utah border. If you're interested in reading about my thoughts of this area and seeing photos, check out The Brown Knowser.

Wherever I went, there seemed to be no end of craft beer. Good craft beer. Whether I walked into a restaurant, sat down at a brew pub, or walked into the craft-beer aisle at a grocery store, I was able to find brews that I've never tried before and, sadly, may never try again.

In the second part of my Southwestern United States road trip, I'd like to share the beer that I had in the town of Page, at the Grand Canyon, and in Flagstaff, near the famous Route 66.

When we drove up to Page, my only thoughts were of touring the Lower Antelope Canyon and watching sunset above Horseshoe Bend. Anything else was icing on the cake. Of course, we had to feed ourselves, so between these two sites, we stopped at a Texas barbecue for dinner, aptly named Big John's Texas Barbecue. The barbecue sampler of various pulled pork, ribs, brisket, and sausage is the way to go if you're undecided, and one platter fills two adults.

Big John's offers some local brew, in bottles, and my wife and I chose well. Here are my notes on both choices.

• American Pilsner, by Grand Canyon Brewing Company (5% ABV, rated 3): for those of you who have followed my past beer reviews, you know that a Pils is not my favourite style of beer. I did, however, find this Pilsner to be flavourful, with a nice body and a solid finish.
• Sunset Amber Ale, by Grand Canyon Brewing Company (5% ABV, rated 4): while I sipped my Pilsner, I couldn't pass up an opportunity to try the beer that my wife chose and I ended up taking several mouthfuls over the course of our meal. This ale was a perfect marriage: the blend of hops and malt cut through the grease (the food was phenomenal) and sweetness in the barbecue sauce. Though I was happy with the beer I chose, I was happier that my wife was willing to share.

Grand Canyon Brewing is located in Williams, just west of Flagstaff, along historic Route 66. If I had known this while I was travelling, I would have made a side trip.

Even the Grand Canyon National Park offers craft beer at it's Yavapai Lodge. We stopped at this cafeteria for lunch and I found an interesting selection to go with my pulled pork sandwich.

• Piehole Vanilla Cherry Porter, by Historic Brewing Company (6% ABV, rated 4): typically, I shy away from any beer that tries to pack in a lot of ingredients. I find that the flavours can compete and get muddied, and you're left with an overwhelmed palate. This porter by a Flagstaff brewery was done just right, with a lovely nose of vanilla and a mouth feel that brought the goodness of a porter that was backed up with a slight cherry flavour. The vanilla returned in the finish. You could taste everything, just not all at once, and this made for a very good ale.

Just as the sun set on the Grand Canyon, the winds picked up and the temperature dropped. As I snapped one of my last photos of the day, a particularly blustery gust snatched my 20-or-so-year-old expedition hat and carried it into the abyss (if you really want to get a sense of how deep the Grand Canyon is, just watch something get smaller and smaller as it falls forever and ever).

I grumbled all the way from the national park to our rented cabin in Flagstaff, remembering how I wore that hat all over Southeast Asia, how it provided me shade as I paddled a canoe through the Rideau Lakes system, from Kingston to Ottawa, how it kept rain off my head in countless situations, and felt that I lost a travel companion.

When we arrived in Flagstaff, we decided to stop at the local Safeway and pick up some groceries because we would be staying at the cabin for a couple of days and were going to take advantage of the kitchen, rather than spend more money in restaurants.

One of the things that I like about American grocery stores is that they not only offer alcohol, but they tend to include a great selection of wonderful craft beer. As I scanned the shelves, my sad eyes fell on a lone bottle that raised my spirits.

• Cappuccino Stout, by Lagunitas Brewing Company (9% ABV, rated 4):  I have tried a couple of beers by this California brewery—a friend gave me a bottle when she returned from a trip to the U.S. and I enjoyed their IPA when I was in New York City last spring. I not only liked Lagunitas beer: I loved it.
  This stout was perfect for drowning my sorrows while, at the same time, lifting my spirits. The powerful coffee flavours are dark and rich. It was like drinking an espresso with a healthy shot of booze. And the 9% alcohol level is strong without coming across as too boozy.

The next day, while wandering the small, mountainous town of Flagstaff, my wife found a café just a short walk on the other side of the railway tracks that parallel historic Route 66, on Beaver Street. I had had some coffee a short time earlier and I wasn't in the mood for a pastry or other treat, so I sat on a bench outside of Macy's and asked Google to find the closest brewery.

My smartphone showed me one that was across the street from where I was sitting.

Situated in a former grocery store, this spacious brewery has plenty of tables to accommodate a large crowd of craft beer lovers. I sat at the bar and ordered a sampler, and chatted with Jack, a retired bartender from Chicago, about the wonders of the craft-beer explosion. While we talked, I took pictures and made notes on Untappd.

• Diamond Down Lager, by Beaver Street Brewery (5% ABV, rated 2): This lager was average but I found the finish a little weak. After only a couple of sips, I was ready to move on.
• Summer Shandy, by Beaver Street (ABV was unavailable, rated 3): this was one of the more interesting brews of the sampler. A cloudy yellow that resembled lemonade, this refreshing beverage smelled of citrus and ginger beer, and tasted like a slightly spiked lemonade. It was flavourful and slightly sweet, and would make an excellent thirst quencher on a hot summer day. On this day, in Flagstaff, it was neither summer nor hot, but I enjoyed this ale all the same.
• Red Rock Raspberry Ale, by Beaver Street (4.4% ABV, rated 2.5): the nose was filled with ripe, fresh raspberry as I breathed in this brew, and the fruit flavours carried through to the finish. It was good but didn't stand out.
• Lumberyard Amber, by Beaver Street/Lumberyard Brewing Company (6% ABV, rated 2): I learned, as I searched for this beer on Untappd, that Beaver Street Brewing and Lumberyard Brewing are one and the same brewery, but at separate locations. Both are on the south side of the railway tracks, just around the corner from each other, both in somewhat historic buildings.
  Talk about cornering the market.
  Both breweries share their perspective ales, and I took it that this amber ale was brewed at the sister location. Or was it? When I first tasted the ale, I thought that the bartender may have placed the wrong glass in the spot for the amber. This beer was as dark as the IPA that Jack was enjoying and tasted of strong hops. My server happily poured me another glass, and I noticed that she drew from two taps as she filled my four-ounce vessel. "It's half red, half IPA," she told me as she replaced my old glass.
  Why would you blend beer? More than that, why would you blend it from two different kegs? In doing so, you assume that people at the tap pour the exact same way every time. For me, I tasted more IPA than anything else, and what the brewery was trying to do did not come off as an amber ale. What I tasted was okay, but I felt that the brewery failed on this sample.
  I also didn't trust what they posted as the alcohol content.
• Railhead Red, by Beaver Street (5.8% ABV, rated 3): this was a very easy-drinking brew. Nice body, good finish.
• Dingle Irish Stout, by Beaver Street (4.6% ABV, rated 3): a classic, dry Irish stout. Enjoyanle, but I have nothing more to say about it.
• Flagstaff IPA, by Beaver Street (6.1% ABV, rated 4): I could see why Jack chose this ale. It has lots of grapefruit aromas, nice, bold, citrus hops, a solid body and a refreshing, palate-cleansing finish. I could drink this ale all day long.
• R&R Oatmeal Stout, by Beaver Street (6.4% ABV, rated 4): this stout was beautifully smokey, with solid flavours and a great finish.
• Hop Gag Imperial IPA, by Beaver Street (8.8% ABV, rated 3): generally, I feel that the word gag should not be used for any food or drink. Gag is a verb I don't want to associate with anything that I'm going to put in my mouth. And while the heady alcohol content made me take notice, it did not cause any reflux action. I did, however, find that the alcohol and hops seemed a little out of sync, though there was good body and the finish was long. I didn't like it as much as I enjoyed their flagship IPA, but this seasonal was interesting nonetheless.

In my next blog post, I'll share my beer experiences of Tucson.

Cheers!

Southwestern Road Trip, Part 1

I've said it before and I'll say it again: I love road trips. When you're rolling on a highway, you see so much of a country, you experience so much of the changing landscape as it unwinds before you. It gives you a chance to stop and smell the flowers.

Or taste the beer that you encounter.

For two weeks, this month, my family and I packed up and headed to the American southwest, to the state of Arizona and to Southern California—specifically, the so-called craft-beer capital of the United States, San Diego. Over these two weeks, I had three specific goals in mind: to visit family, to shoot as many photographs as my data cards could hold, and to discover as much craft beer as I could handle (and still travel).

I accomplished all three objectives.

In the 14 days that I was on the ground and running, I found craft beer to be flowing everywhere I turned. From Phoenix to Page, over the Grand Canyon, From Flagstaff down to Tucson, and in San Diego, I tried beer in brew pubs, family restaurants, in hotel lobbies, and from liquor stores and Whole Foods. In these 14 days, I sampled a total of 56 distinct brews—that's four different tastings a day.

(Don't worry, I didn't drink and drive. Also, many of these samples came in four-ounce glasses, and I sometimes shared or didn't finish the glass.)

What I'd like to do over the next few posts is to share some of the highlights, some of the disappointments, and some fond memories of the places and the brews they offered. I acknowledge that lots of these producers are not widely available—although there were a couple of breweries that I had heard of, I have never seen any of their beer on Ontario store shelves—I just might pique your curiosity enough to prompt you to visit these places yourself.

I'm breaking this post into the major areas that I visited: Phoenix, Northern Arizona (Page, Grand Canyon, and Flagstaff), Tucson, and San Diego.

While I tried to get out to brew pubs and restaurants, I also shopped for beer. In Litchfield, I was introduced to Total Wine and More, a mecca of spirits and craft beer, on N. Litchfield Road. That's where my beer journey started.

Thanks to the convenience of Untappd, here is a list of the first 14 distinct beers that I tried, in order, while in Phoenix, complete with my Beer O'Clock rating (I apologize for the quality of the photos, which were quickly shot by my smartphone and didn't seem to focus clearly):

Camelback IPA, by The Phoenix Ale Brewery (ABV 6.1%, rated 2.5): on the eve of climbing the Phoenix mountain of the same name, I tried this light-bodied IPA. I was slightly disappointed because I expected more bitter hops, and I found this ale somewhat watered down. Without knowing the alcohol content, I would have believed this to be a light (under 5% ABV) ale. I bought a six pack and left the remaining five bottles for my brother-in-law.
 
Sex Panther Porter, by SanTan Brewing Company (ABV 6.9%, rated 3): this double-chocolate porter had good flavours and went down easily, but I found the body light (which is not a bad thing), bordering on watery (which is not good), despite the alcohol content. Still, I would drink it again. And the name is irresistible.
 
Sriracha Stout, by Rogue Ales & Spirits (ABV 5.7%, rated 4): I had previously seen this beer on social media by fellow beer lovers, and even though the LCBO does bring in Rogue beer from time to time, I have never seen the bottle that so resembles the hot sauce I love so much. Zesty and full of body, I found that as I worked my way down the bottle, my tongue started to feel the same way that it did when I put too much of this red-rooster sauce on a pizza slice. Chocolate also comes through and makes this concoction seem like a South American delicacy rather that a stout. I liked it a lot but, like the sauce it's made with, I have my limits and couldn't drink more than one bottle in a sitting. Or two.
 

Pacifico Clara, by Grupo Modelo S.A. de C.V. (4.5% ABV, rated 3): okay, this isn't craft beer. Grupo Modelo is a large Mexican brewery that is now owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. This beer tasted like the mass-produced lager that it is, but I have to say that on a hot day, after doing touristy things in Phoenix and ending up at a Mexican restaurant, this bevvy went down well. I'd drink it again and I don't care who knows it.
 
Oatmeal Stout, by Nimbus Brewing Company (5% ABV, rated 3.5): I first tried this stout on a warm evening in the heart of Phoenix, at Copper Blues Rock Pub & Kitchen. Live music played as my wife and I sat in a slightly quiet section, where we could converse with my brother, who lives in Chandler, to the southeast of the city. I enjoyed the classic flavours and solid body of this oatmeal stout, and when I visited the brewery a week later, I was happy to try this beer again. It's well worth a try.
 
Short Hop, by Four Peaks Brewing Company (5.2% ABV, rated 4.5): because we were travelling with kids, my wife and I thought that it would be only fair to let them choose some activities on our trip. Being teens, they wanted to shop: specifically, they wanted to check out used games stores. My eldest is caught up in nostalgic game systems (NES, in particular) and is always on the eye out for old consoles in good condition.

We found a Flashback Games in Tempe, just east of the Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport, not far from Arizona State University, but when we pulled into the parking lot we were surprised to learn that it didn't open until noon, which was almost a half-hour away. We were all hungry, so I went onto Google to find the nearest brew pub and was pleasantly surprised to learn that Four Peaks was just around the corner. It was on my list of must-try breweries, so 10 minutes later we found ourselves seated at a table.
 
I have to say that the service in this brew pub was stellar. Our server was friendly and attentive, and made me feel as welcome as the folks at Mill Street, who have known me for years. The food was simple but delicious, and generous (my wife and I split a single plate and both came away full), and the beer was outstanding.
 
I ordered their sampler but added a tasting of one of their seasonals, the Short Hop session IPA. It was aromatic, with light, fresh citrus and assertive but not overpowering hops. It awoke my palate and went down well in the heat. It was a great starter for what was to follow.
 
Sunbru Kölsh, by Four Peaks Brewing (5.2% ABV, rated 3): I find kölshes to be malty and a bit nutty, and this one didn't disappoint. It coated my tongue without cloying. Good body, great finish.
 
Kilt Lifter, by Four Peaks Brewing (6% ABV, rated 3): this was a good Scottish ale, with good malt and caramel, but I didn't find it as flavourful as I expected from this style. It was nice, but I was eager to move on to the next sample.
 
Oatmeal Stout, by Four Peaks Brewing (5% ABV, rated 3.5): a good, solid stout. Nicely balanced with a solid finish.
 
8th Street Pale Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (4.9% ABV, rated 4.5): this was my favourite of the sampler, and I was tempted to take a six pack with me, but my wife reminded me that we still had leftover beer at her brother's home and that we should limit what we pick up. Plus, she was ahead of me on the sampler tasting and I think she had another beer in mind. This pale ale was refreshing and well-balanced, with great hops that cleansed my palate. I did find it on tap at another pub in Tucson, and I gladly ordered a full pint.
 
Peach Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (4.5% ABV, rated 3): peach flavours came in abundance through the nose and on the palate, and this is a nice summer beverage if you like fruity beer. Even though I tend to steer clear of peach beer, I found this one pleasant enough.
 
White Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (5.4% ABV, rated 3): this witbier was light and refreshing, and had all the classic flavours of a wheat ale. Not much more can be said: I liked it, but it was a standard ale of this style.
 

Hop Knot IPA, by Four Peaks Brewing (6.8% ABV, rated 4): the citrus and hops live up to its name. This is a great IPA with lots of flavour and great body, from start to finish. Hop Knot was also my wife's favourite ale of all the samples, and because I liked it too (though, 8th Street was my favourite), we picked up a six pack that travelled with us for the rest of the trip, with the last cans making it all the way back to Ottawa (but were finished during our first dinner at my parents' home). It's a solid IPA and is highly recommended.
 
Raj IPA, by Four Peaks Brewing (6.9% ABV, rated 3): I liked this IPA, but I found the balance wasn't quite right and that the alcohol stood out a bit. I much preferred the Hop Knot.



On the fifth day of our vacation, it was time to head north and explore more of Arizona, starting in Page. In my next blog post, I'll share the brews and breweries that I discovered in that small Navajo town, the Grand Canyon, and on to Flagstaff. Come along for the ride.


Cheers!