Southwestern Road Trip, Part 1

I've said it before and I'll say it again: I love road trips. When you're rolling on a highway, you see so much of a country, you experience so much of the changing landscape as it unwinds before you. It gives you a chance to stop and smell the flowers.

Or taste the beer that you encounter.

For two weeks, this month, my family and I packed up and headed to the American southwest, to the state of Arizona and to Southern California—specifically, the so-called craft-beer capital of the United States, San Diego. Over these two weeks, I had three specific goals in mind: to visit family, to shoot as many photographs as my data cards could hold, and to discover as much craft beer as I could handle (and still travel).

I accomplished all three objectives.

In the 14 days that I was on the ground and running, I found craft beer to be flowing everywhere I turned. From Phoenix to Page, over the Grand Canyon, From Flagstaff down to Tucson, and in San Diego, I tried beer in brew pubs, family restaurants, in hotel lobbies, and from liquor stores and Whole Foods. In these 14 days, I sampled a total of 56 distinct brews—that's four different tastings a day.

(Don't worry, I didn't drink and drive. Also, many of these samples came in four-ounce glasses, and I sometimes shared or didn't finish the glass.)

What I'd like to do over the next few posts is to share some of the highlights, some of the disappointments, and some fond memories of the places and the brews they offered. I acknowledge that lots of these producers are not widely available—although there were a couple of breweries that I had heard of, I have never seen any of their beer on Ontario store shelves—I just might pique your curiosity enough to prompt you to visit these places yourself.

I'm breaking this post into the major areas that I visited: Phoenix, Northern Arizona (Page, Grand Canyon, and Flagstaff), Tucson, and San Diego.

While I tried to get out to brew pubs and restaurants, I also shopped for beer. In Litchfield, I was introduced to Total Wine and More, a mecca of spirits and craft beer, on N. Litchfield Road. That's where my beer journey started.

Thanks to the convenience of Untappd, here is a list of the first 14 distinct beers that I tried, in order, while in Phoenix, complete with my Beer O'Clock rating (I apologize for the quality of the photos, which were quickly shot by my smartphone and didn't seem to focus clearly):

Camelback IPA, by The Phoenix Ale Brewery (ABV 6.1%, rated 2.5): on the eve of climbing the Phoenix mountain of the same name, I tried this light-bodied IPA. I was slightly disappointed because I expected more bitter hops, and I found this ale somewhat watered down. Without knowing the alcohol content, I would have believed this to be a light (under 5% ABV) ale. I bought a six pack and left the remaining five bottles for my brother-in-law.
 
Sex Panther Porter, by SanTan Brewing Company (ABV 6.9%, rated 3): this double-chocolate porter had good flavours and went down easily, but I found the body light (which is not a bad thing), bordering on watery (which is not good), despite the alcohol content. Still, I would drink it again. And the name is irresistible.
 
Sriracha Stout, by Rogue Ales & Spirits (ABV 5.7%, rated 4): I had previously seen this beer on social media by fellow beer lovers, and even though the LCBO does bring in Rogue beer from time to time, I have never seen the bottle that so resembles the hot sauce I love so much. Zesty and full of body, I found that as I worked my way down the bottle, my tongue started to feel the same way that it did when I put too much of this red-rooster sauce on a pizza slice. Chocolate also comes through and makes this concoction seem like a South American delicacy rather that a stout. I liked it a lot but, like the sauce it's made with, I have my limits and couldn't drink more than one bottle in a sitting. Or two.
 

Pacifico Clara, by Grupo Modelo S.A. de C.V. (4.5% ABV, rated 3): okay, this isn't craft beer. Grupo Modelo is a large Mexican brewery that is now owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. This beer tasted like the mass-produced lager that it is, but I have to say that on a hot day, after doing touristy things in Phoenix and ending up at a Mexican restaurant, this bevvy went down well. I'd drink it again and I don't care who knows it.
 
Oatmeal Stout, by Nimbus Brewing Company (5% ABV, rated 3.5): I first tried this stout on a warm evening in the heart of Phoenix, at Copper Blues Rock Pub & Kitchen. Live music played as my wife and I sat in a slightly quiet section, where we could converse with my brother, who lives in Chandler, to the southeast of the city. I enjoyed the classic flavours and solid body of this oatmeal stout, and when I visited the brewery a week later, I was happy to try this beer again. It's well worth a try.
 
Short Hop, by Four Peaks Brewing Company (5.2% ABV, rated 4.5): because we were travelling with kids, my wife and I thought that it would be only fair to let them choose some activities on our trip. Being teens, they wanted to shop: specifically, they wanted to check out used games stores. My eldest is caught up in nostalgic game systems (NES, in particular) and is always on the eye out for old consoles in good condition.

We found a Flashback Games in Tempe, just east of the Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport, not far from Arizona State University, but when we pulled into the parking lot we were surprised to learn that it didn't open until noon, which was almost a half-hour away. We were all hungry, so I went onto Google to find the nearest brew pub and was pleasantly surprised to learn that Four Peaks was just around the corner. It was on my list of must-try breweries, so 10 minutes later we found ourselves seated at a table.
 
I have to say that the service in this brew pub was stellar. Our server was friendly and attentive, and made me feel as welcome as the folks at Mill Street, who have known me for years. The food was simple but delicious, and generous (my wife and I split a single plate and both came away full), and the beer was outstanding.
 
I ordered their sampler but added a tasting of one of their seasonals, the Short Hop session IPA. It was aromatic, with light, fresh citrus and assertive but not overpowering hops. It awoke my palate and went down well in the heat. It was a great starter for what was to follow.
 
Sunbru Kölsh, by Four Peaks Brewing (5.2% ABV, rated 3): I find kölshes to be malty and a bit nutty, and this one didn't disappoint. It coated my tongue without cloying. Good body, great finish.
 
Kilt Lifter, by Four Peaks Brewing (6% ABV, rated 3): this was a good Scottish ale, with good malt and caramel, but I didn't find it as flavourful as I expected from this style. It was nice, but I was eager to move on to the next sample.
 
Oatmeal Stout, by Four Peaks Brewing (5% ABV, rated 3.5): a good, solid stout. Nicely balanced with a solid finish.
 
8th Street Pale Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (4.9% ABV, rated 4.5): this was my favourite of the sampler, and I was tempted to take a six pack with me, but my wife reminded me that we still had leftover beer at her brother's home and that we should limit what we pick up. Plus, she was ahead of me on the sampler tasting and I think she had another beer in mind. This pale ale was refreshing and well-balanced, with great hops that cleansed my palate. I did find it on tap at another pub in Tucson, and I gladly ordered a full pint.
 
Peach Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (4.5% ABV, rated 3): peach flavours came in abundance through the nose and on the palate, and this is a nice summer beverage if you like fruity beer. Even though I tend to steer clear of peach beer, I found this one pleasant enough.
 
White Ale, by Four Peaks Brewing (5.4% ABV, rated 3): this witbier was light and refreshing, and had all the classic flavours of a wheat ale. Not much more can be said: I liked it, but it was a standard ale of this style.
 

Hop Knot IPA, by Four Peaks Brewing (6.8% ABV, rated 4): the citrus and hops live up to its name. This is a great IPA with lots of flavour and great body, from start to finish. Hop Knot was also my wife's favourite ale of all the samples, and because I liked it too (though, 8th Street was my favourite), we picked up a six pack that travelled with us for the rest of the trip, with the last cans making it all the way back to Ottawa (but were finished during our first dinner at my parents' home). It's a solid IPA and is highly recommended.
 
Raj IPA, by Four Peaks Brewing (6.9% ABV, rated 3): I liked this IPA, but I found the balance wasn't quite right and that the alcohol stood out a bit. I much preferred the Hop Knot.



On the fifth day of our vacation, it was time to head north and explore more of Arizona, starting in Page. In my next blog post, I'll share the brews and breweries that I discovered in that small Navajo town, the Grand Canyon, and on to Flagstaff. Come along for the ride.


Cheers!

Road Trip, Part 1

I love hitting the road and discovering the many craft breweries that Ontario has to offer. To date, there are some 200 microbreweries in the province, with no slowing in sight.

Obviously, I can't get to all of them at once, but little by little, I'm paying my respects to more and more of them.

On my recent vacation, I hopped in my car and drove to the Bruce Peninsula, in Southern Ontario. If you don't know where that is but have a basic concept of what Ontario looks like, Southern Ontario looks a bit like an arrow head, with its directional point towards southwest: the Bruce Peninsula is that northern point in the arrow head, and it's the narrow strip of land that separates Lake Huron and Georgian Bay.

From Ottawa, depending on your route, it can take approximately seven-and-a-half hours to reach the Northern Bruce, which is just north of Wiarton. I chose my route carefully, making sure that I passed a few craft breweries along the way. My intention was to stop for lunch in the Muskoka Lake district and visit three breweries: Muskoka Brewery, Lake of Bays Brewing Company, and Sawdust City Brewing Company. As time had it, I never got the chance to stop at Lake of Bays.

My first stop was to Muskoka Brewery, in Bracebridge. Not far from the intersection of highways 118 and 11, the brewery was only a couple of minutes off of my route. These criss-crossing thoroughfares join up south of the town, so the drive to the brewery gives you the impression that you're out in the back woods. Sort of. You definitely feel as though you're in cottage country, which suits the brew company well, with its iconic Muskoka chair as its logo.

Muskoka Brewery is one of my favourite Ontario ale producers. I love the hoppiness of Mad Tom, and last year, I almost exclusively drank their Detour session ale. I was looking for something special to try at the brewery and anticipated something on tap at their tasting bar.

On that note, I was sadly disappointed. Four ales were on tap: Mad Tom, Detour, their cream ale (or possibly, the Craft Lager—I didn't pay close attention), and their Summerweiss. All four (or five, since I don't remember with of the two beers the fourth tap offered), I have had before, and I like all of them, but I wanted to try something I had never had before, something I could take with me that I wouldn't normally find in my local LCBO.

Happily, while there was nothing new for me to taste, their refrigerator held two beers that were new to me: Moonlight Kettle Just Peachy, a peach kölsch, and Winter Jack, a barrel-aged, double-chocolate stout. I grabbed a bunch of both, and within about 10 to 15 minutes after pulling into the parking lot, I was on my way.

Because I'm not drinking in September, you can expect a review of the kölsch in October. The Winter Jack is laying down until Christmas.

On my drive, when Hwy. 118 cut through Carnarvon, I should have turned onto the 35, heading north, towards Dorset. From there, I would have turned onto the 117, which would have taken me to Lake of Bays, my other intended stop. Because I didn't know how long it would take me to backtrack, and because I like to keep moving forward, I decided to save that brewery for another trip. My next destination was Gravenhurst and Sawdust City.

This newish brewery is located in the heart of Gravenhurst and was only a couple of blocks off my route. Located in what looks like it could have once been a small department store, Sawdust City boasted a large retail area with a wall of refrigeration cases and a sitting area that could host dozens of visitors. Large windows showcased the fermentation tanks, and a small stage offers live music on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Now that's a Muskoka chair!

I pulled into their parking lot just after noon, just in time for lunch. I learned that you can order food from a truck that is parked in the lot, so I ordered a Korean beef bulgogi sandwich. The owner of the food truck takes your money and delivers the food to your table inside the brewery. I ponied up to the bar and tried a four-glass sampler, selecting four ales that I hadn't yet tried from Sawdust City: Gateway Kölsch, Golden Beach Pale Ale, Skinny Dipping Stout, and The Princess Wears Girlpants, a lovely Belgian blonde.

The kölsch was light in body and in flavour, and while it was a good beer to sip on a hot day, it wasn't my favourite of the bunch. I really liked the pale ale and the stout, but by far, my favourite was the Belgian blonde. My greatest disappointment, however, was when I learned that the brewery was sold out of cans, and the only way to enjoy it for this season would be to drink it from the keg at the brewery.

Next year, Sawdust City, I want to write a full review of this ale, so keep some aside for me, okay?

I left the brewery with a full stomach (the food from the truck was amazing!), some lovely beer flavours in my mouth, and cans of the pale ale, stout, and a third, untried selection—a saison called 7 Weeks of Staying Up All Night (with a name like that, how could I resist?).

Back on the road, I continued my road trip, without stopping, until I came to a rest at the mouth of Lion's Head Harbour, overlooking the curving coastline of Georgian Bay, where the high, sheer cliffs mark the beginning of the Niagara Escarpment, waiting to meet up with my family, who had been camping on the peninsula for the past three days before my arrival.

Together, we visited a few more breweries over the next week, and in my next Beer O'Clock post, I'll continue the road trip and share some thoughts on the beer I sampled.

Cheers!